By Karen Young
•
March 12, 2024
Chef on the rise Norman Fenton , known for his previous work at MICHELIN-starred Schwa , acclaimed fine-dining restaurant Brass Heart, and his current menus at Wild Tulum, opened the doors on his debut venture Cariño, Chicago as chef-owner in partnership with owner of Wild Tulum Karen Young on December 28th 2023 in the Uptown neighborhood of Chicago. The duo have created the concept with their experience and passion in mind, with Fenton heading conceptual and culinary direction while Young imparts her eye for design and experiential hospitality. The intimate 1,700 sq. ft. Latin fine dining haven is a love letter from Chef Fenton to his time spent traveling, living, working, and starting a family in Latin America. Cariño features a 12-16 course Latin-focused tasting menu showcasing regional cuisines, ingredients, and flavors throughout Mexico and Central and South America in whimsical and immersive ways. Guests can also experience a lively late-night taco omakase on select nights featuring tortillas made via Cariño’s in-house masa program, as well as a Latin wine menu curated by Jean Banchet-nominated sommelier Richie Ribando (Next, Elizabeth, Smyth) and cocktails by trailblazer Denisse Soto (Osito’s Tap). Cuisine As with his 9 course tasting menu at WILD Tulum, Fenton begins his elaborate tasting menu with an aguachile course, taking the traditional dish and transforming it into a sensory experience. Cariño’s iteration presents a base of white soy cured Ora King salmon and kanpachi from Baja California, served in an aromatic cloud of jalapeño and serrano chili vapor. Moving into the ravioli course, Fenton takes the opportunity to celebrate the importance of corn in Latin America using the Mexican delicacy huitlacoche, a fungus specific to corn plants. The fungus’ earthy flavors pair with the dish’s sweet corn and truffle, while fried corn silks add a crispy bite. Although the order of dishes is akin to a traditional tasting menu, Fenton makes a heartfelt interlude just before moving from savory to sweet by incorporating an after-dinner coffee and cookies tradition he’s grown to enjoy through his wife’s family in Mexico. Paying homage to this experience, Fenton serves a freshly brewed coffee made from a house blend of Latin American coffee beans alongside a fried churro coated in sherry sugar and surrounded by Oaxacan mole negro and raisin puree, with dots of foie gras mousse on top. Late Night Taco Omakase Cariño’s late-night taco omakase will be available Wednesday - Saturday nights at 9:30pm at the seven-seat chef’s counter. In true omakase fashion, there is no set menu, but guests can expect eight to twelve courses with the same elevated technique and vibrant sensory experience Fenton fosters in the tasting menu. Inclusive in the experience is the guest’s choice of three half pours of wine or three half cocktails. With tortillas hand-shaped and cooked over a traditional comal for each course, Cariño is one of few restaurants in the city to grind their own masa on-premises, allowing the chef and his team to add unique flavors to their tortillas by grinding ingredients like shrimp shells and black truffles into the masa. Beverage To pair with Fenton’s menu, Cariño’s beverage program will present one of the Midwest’s most extensive and thoughtful collections of Latin wines in addition to craft cocktails, and beers. Spearheading the wine program is Jean Banchet-nominated sommelier Richie Ribando, known for his work at James Beard Award-winning fine dining restaurant Next, three MICHELIN-starred Smyth, and more. Denisse Soto, lauded for her cocktail menus at Osito’s Tap on the Southwest side of Chicago, draws inspiration from her upbringing in Mexico City to helm cocktail creation at Cariño. Guests can expect inventive takes on classic cocktails like a truffle Manhattan made with Mexican whiskey and huitlacoche-infused Argentinian red vermouth, served tableside from a hickory smoke-filled decanter as well as a pisco sour inspired drink made with the herbal Patagonian spirit, Trikal, and chicha morada, a fruity purple corn-based Peruvian beverage. On the non- alcoholic side, Cariño will have housemade agua frescas, Mexican sodas, and Sparrow coffee and tea. For reservations in Cariño, located at 4662 N. Broadway, Chicago, USA CLICK HERE